The Wave - Perspective of a Lifeguard

The wind had been wild all day and the seas were going crazy! I watched the surfers carving up the feral tubes out the back, pulling out before the waves peaked and crashed down upon them. I was just about to pack up and go home when I saw a young boy jumping off the deck and hurtling down the sand dunes. He plunged on, knee deep, waist deep, then DIVE! He was confronted by a huge wave of water and it was like it swallowed him up.

He dived into blue-green wall trying to get out of the broken white water but this wave was different, it had a twist in its tail. I could see the boy go under water for about 10 seconds before fighting desperately to get to the surface. The wave finally spewed him out into the shallows and lazily retreated.